Category: vet blog

For those of you who regularly read our blogs, you would have already read that “Reckless”, a 20 year old mare belonging to our nurse Nic, is pregnant.  She is due on approximately 28 October this year.  She is currently about 170 days into her pregnancy. In the photo above she is at around 165 days.

The last 3 months of a mare’s pregnancy is when most of the growth occurs, and is a time when the feed intake needs to significantly increase.

We are happy to report that all is going really well so far for “Reckless” and we are all very excited about the prospect of a new addition (especially Nic!).

We will post more photos as the pregnancy progresses.

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The Hendra virus is deadly to horses and life threatening to humans.  Administering the Hendra vaccine helps protect your horse, family, friends and colleagues.

We have recently sent out a letter to our equine clients to advise them of our policy with regard to horses and the Hendra virus vaccination. Unfortunately there seems to have been a lot of misunderstanding with many clients mistakenly believing we will not attend to horses who have not been vaccinated.

To makes things clear, we WILL attend horses that have not been vaccinated.  However, because of the obvious issues, there will be an extra fee involved as PPE must be worn by both vet and handler of the horse at the time of consult.  This fee will vary considering the symptoms the horse is presenting with. It is important to know that a horse can have  contracted the Hendra virus and not show any symptoms for 2 weeks. Therefore it is a very real possibility that a vet could attend to a horse who is symptom free and yet still contract the Hendra virus if he/she is not wearing appropriate PPE. While the risk may seem low, the consequence is dire and potentially life threatening.

There are many rumours circulating in relation to possible negative effects of the Hendra vaccination. Zoetis (the manufacturer of the Hendra vaccine) have an information sheet with some facts about the Hendra vaccination, some of which are listed below.  See the full factsheet at this website:   https://health4horses.com.au/Documents/H4H_Factsheet_V5_WEB2.pdf

“When people get a vaccine from their doctor, it is expected that they will have a sore arm after the injection.  Some horses may also respond with a mild injection site reaction after vaccination, and this is no reason for concern.

With over 300 000 doses of Equivac HeV administered, reactions have only been reported for 0.28% of vaccinated horses, with the vast majority of these being injection site reactions, which resolve with little or no treatment.

The Hendra vaccine has not caused a single horse death.  While there have been rumours of this, they relate to horse that died of snake-bite, grain ingestion, twisted gut and other unrelated health issues.

On the other hand 12 horses have died of the Hendra virus over the past two years because they were not vaccinated and six horse owners in 2014 alone have had to be given an experimental monoclonal antibody treatment as a result of high exposure to Hendra virus from these infected horse.”

The Hendra virus vaccine was registered with the APVMA on 5 August, 2015.  For registration details please copy and paste this address in your web browser:   http://apvma.gov.au/node/12876

If you would like to book your horse in for a Hendra vaccination please give us a call.

Compared to us, dogs and cats age at a very different rate.  After their 7th birthday, cats and dogs enter their senior years, which is equivalent in human terms of entering their 50’s.  Large and giant breeds however enter their senior years after only 5 years of age. (Large and giant breeds are considered to be dogs over 25kg’s.)

Therefore it is important to realize that the nutritional and physical needs of your pet changes.  They are also much more likely to develop an age-related disorder so regular health checks should become a priority. There are many products available to help your pet as they age including diet foods and joint formulas.

Please visit the link below to check out your pet’s age in human years:

http://www.hillspet.com.au/en-au/seniors/pet-years-in-human-years.html

Diseases that become more common as dogs age are:

• dental disease
• heart disease
• diabetes
• dementia
• cancer
• skin disease
• obesity
• osteoarthritis
• kidney disease

Some signs to look out for:

• hearing loss, poor vision, reduced sense of smell
• digestion issues
• loss of muscle mass
• lower exercise tolerance
• poor coat
• difficulty eating/chewing
• weight gain/weight loss
• increased drinking and/or urinating
• decreased agility and playfulness
• behavioural changes, e.g. loss of previous toilet training, confusion and disorientation

Diseases that become more common as cats age are:

• kidney disease
• diabetes
• urinary disease
• dental disease
• heart disease
• cancer
• urinary disease
• behavioural and neurological diseases

Signs to look out for:

• poor grooming
• digestion issues
• weight gain/loss
• decreased appetite
• increased thirst
• increased urination
• decreased agility
• reduced activity and exercise
• behavioural changes including irritability, confusion, less human interaction

 

The great news is that the earlier these age-related diseases are detected, the better the chances of managing them successfully.

With winter here, temperatures are dropping and this often causes mice and rats to head indoors in search of food.  If you are unlucky it will be your house they decide to call home.  Most of us tackle this problem by setting traps and putting out rat baits as no-one wants to share their home with these rodents.  Unfortunately if the appropriate precautions are not taken your pet could be the one who ends up taking the bait, resulting in their possible death.

 

It is extremely important to take care when placing the baits by securing them well, checking them regularly and putting them in a place where they are not accessible to your pet.

If you suspect your pet may have eaten rat bait it is imperative you contact your vet as soon as possible, even though there may be no immediate signs of them being ill. The poison can take two to three days (sometimes even longer) to start producing noticeable symptoms, and unfortunately by this time it can be too late.

The most common symptoms include pale gums and eyes, weakness and lethargy and losing their appetite. These symptoms occur because the baits cause slow but massive internal bleeding. If your pet has reached this stage of poisoning, treatment often requires blood or canine plasma transfusion and intensive care. However, the prognosis if you bring your pet in at the early stages of them ingesting a bait is excellent.

It is important if you suspect your pet has ingested a bait to let the vet know the particular type and brand of bait.  As careful as we always try to be, no-one is infallible and pets have a way of getting into places that you never suspect they could, so please don’t feel embarrassed or ashamed.  Telling the vet the type of toxin your pet has ingested will enable him/her to give the best treatment possible.

With the recent weather events we have been experiencing, we thought it would be a good time to help you ensure that your fur babies are all safe and well.  Dogs especially can cause themselves great harm by trying to escape, including injuries such as lacerations, fractured or broken claws, broken teeth and bruising.  The worst outcome of all is losing your pet.  Therefore it is very important to ensure that there are no holes or escape routes possible from the yard or pen.  Following are some suggestions for handling your dog during a thunderstorm.

Many owners are under the assumption that if they don’t offer any consolation to their pets during a storm they won’t reinforce a negative behaviour brought on by a thunderstorm.  However if the thunderstorm is severe it is unacceptable to have the “they’ll be right” attitude.  The reasoning behind this is your dog won’t understand being punished for being scared or worried and can potentially make the anxiety associated with thunderstorms worse.  Therefore by providing a positive and distracting stimulus, it is more likely to calm your dog down.

 

Providing a distracting stimulus can include offering treats, cuddling and anything that your dog enjoys.  Therefore associating the loud cracks of thunder with toys and other goodies can allow the animal to think the situation is pleasant.  Another method can include offering your pet to “hide” in a crate, as this is a natural psychological defence for dogs. Getting a dog used to a crate is recommended when they are puppies, as this can be easier than when they are mature.  The crate offers an excellent safe place for your dog to go when they are scared or fearing something.  While encouraging the hiding technique isn’t usually recommended, it works for some people.

Another method that may work is placing your dog into an enclosed room (maybe a bathroom) and playing soothing music or even just the radio.  By doing this it can distract the dog from the sounds of the thunder and also help reduce the noise by placing them in the enclosed room.

 

If these methods aren’t suitable there is a produce called the “Thunder Shirt” (see photo below).  The Thunder Shirt offers a safe, effective, drug free and easy to use option to comfort your dog during moments of anxiety (which may be experienced through stormy weather).  The Thunder Shirt is designed to apply a gentle, but constant pressure on the torso of the dog which can create a calming effect.  We can order these shirts in for you if we don’t already have the size you require in store.

The last method that should be tried to prevent anxiety associated with thunderstorms is to ask your veterinarian about calming drugs for your dog.  If all avenues have been exhausted there are medications available, however these must be used under the direction of the veterinarian.

Overall the most important thing to remember is to ensure that your pets have a safe and enclosed environment that they cannot harm themselves in trying to escape or hide and also to try some of the mentioned methods to calm your dog down during a thunderstorm.

With winter now approaching it is important to consider how the cold weather can affect your dog.  Dogs exposed to the cold can experience a range of problems including chills, respiratory problems and particularly arthritis.  As a general rule, the smaller and older your dog is, the more help they will need to keep comfortable and warm because their body cannot generate heat as quickly as larger or younger dogs.

For this reason, it is important to provide them with blankets at night time and a place where they can snuggle in to keep as warm as possible. We sell “Snoozy” blankets (pictured below), which are great dog blankets and very easy to wash and dry.  It is also very important to consider providing them with a dog bed that is not in direct contact with the ground such as the hessian dog beds (see below) or the snooza type beds.  These beds are great for both winter and summer as in the warmer months, air can circulate beneath them, thereby keeping your pet cooler whilst in the winter months, the dog is not in direct contact with the cold, and often wet, ground.

Dog coats and jackets are also a very effective way of keeping your dog warm while they are outside in the winter months, and they can be a great fun way of expressing your pet’s personality. We have just brought in  a great range of coats in a variety of styles, colours and sizes.  To measure your dog for a coat, you can either bring him/her in and our friendly staff can help you to choose the correct size, or you can measure your dog from the base of the neck to the base of the tail to get the measurement you will need.  See the photo below for instructions.

Exercise is also important because it will get your dog’s blood circulating more rapidly which in turn stops them getting too cold.  This can also mean increasing their food intake during winter, as they use more energy keeping warm.

When dogs get cold, they will often bark to let their owner know about it, so it will help both the dog and you to get a good night’s sleep if they are comfortable and warm.

If your notice your dog suffering any discomfort such as difficulty with movement, such as standing from a sitting or lying down position it is important to bring him/her in for a check-up with our vet.  There are extremely good medications and supplements available now which  help give relief from arthritis.

The photo below shows one of the gorgeous coats we have for sale. Please call in and see us and check out the great range of coats and blankets we have.

Deciding whether or not to desex your pet can be a big decision to make. Desexing is not only beneficial to your pets but recommended, unless you want to use them for breeding purposes. The procedure between males and females is clearly different and therefore are named differently. To desex a male animal it is called castrating, whereas desexing a female animal is called a spey. The process if castrating an animal involves removing both testicles, as these are vital parts in reproduction and without these male dogs cannot reproduce. Females on the other hand, have a more complex surgery. During the procedure the females undergo a full ovariohysterectomy, which involves removing the ovaries and uterus. Once again these are the vital section of the reproductive system that allow female animals to produce young.

WHY SHOULD I DESEX MY PET?
There are many advantages to desexing both male and female pets. One of the biggest benefits is that is can prevent unwanted offspring and further keep animals out of shelters. In 2012-2013 the RSPCA had a total of 49, 189 dogs and sadly 10, 355 of them were euthanised; in the same year there was a total of 49, 236 cats and 19, 464 were euthanised. Quite regularly rescue organisations such as the RSPCA or Red Collar Rescue are busting at the seams with puppies and kittens; by getting your pets desexed and not allowing them to breed uncontrolled we can help limit the numbers of unwanted and euthanised animals.

Another giant advantage is preventing undesirable behaviour. In male animals this is the biggest advantage as it can prevent them from becoming aggressive, roaming and wandering, marking their territory (spraying for male felines). In females it can also reduce the mood swings when on heat and also limit mess when they are in season.

The most important reason for desexing your pet is the medical benefit. In females desexing at five to six months of age, before they have their first heat can help reduce the risk of them contracting mammary tumours (which is like breast cancer), tumours on the ovaries and uterus and also having a pyometra. A pyometra is a large infection in the uterus, which can be life-threatening and results in the animal being desexed anyway (as this is the only way to fix the infection). In male animals desexing at the recommended age also helps prevent prostatic disease, perianal tumours, and eliminates the risk of testicular cancers. Alongside these preventions, it also helps prevent inter-breeding and hereditary diseases being passed to offspring.
WHAT AGE CAN MY PET BE DESEXED?
The first question most pet owners have is what age they can desex there pet? It is recommended that desexing takes place for both males and females when they five to six months of age. The reason that desexing is recommended at this age is because dogs and cats can reach sexual maturity from as early as six months to eighteen months, depending on the breed. In some rare cases some animals have come into season as early as four months, however this is very uncommon.

WHAT IS INVOLVED?

Upon deciding to book your pet in for desexing, they will need to be admitted to hospital (come into the clinic). On arrival there will be a short consult with a veterinarian to ensure all vital signs are okay and to go through the surgery consent form. At this stage you (as the owner) will be able to decide on what extra things you would like your pet to have whilst having the procedure completed. The first option is a pre-anaesthetic blood test; which will ensure all of the main internal organs are functioning well and will be able to handle the anaesthetic. The second option is to have your pet on intravenous fluids whilst the surgery is taking place, which will assist maintaining homeostasis in the body. The third option is to allow the staff to give you pet extra analgesia medication (pain relief). Another option is to have you pet microchipped or vaccinated, if they have not previously been done. Lastly an Elizabethan collar or commonly known as the bucket of shame, which will prevent your pet from being able to chew their sutures.
After consultation with a veterinarian, you pet will be admitted to a hospital cage and sedated, ready for their procedure.

WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO AFTER?
Desexing is generally a day surgery unless there are further complications or requests. Therefore your little ones can be picked up in the afternoon, as this will allow them enough time to wake up from surgery. Upon going home your pet probably won’t want to eat as nausea is commonly associated after an anaesthetic. They will also have to be kept quiet for ten days and no swimming or bathing until sutures are removed. You will also need to keep a close eye on them to ensure there is no chewing of the sutures either. You pet would love to just go home to a nice, quiet warm place and sleep.

At the clinic we do routine desexing from Monday through to Friday. Please phone the clinic today and enquire about your pets!

There is a lot of talk that your pet will be better off if you cook for them in comparison to buying food from a shop where it is already pre-made; however there have been no studies to date done on this.  Therefore the pros and cons of each method should be weighed up.

Home preparing your pets meals can involve a lot more than just mixing up some rice and a bit of mince.  It is essential to put a little effort into learning about what your pets daily essential needs are.  Also, home preparing meals can be time consuming, as the food needs to remain fresh.  There are also a few more risks involved with handling raw meats and other by products.  To prevent any risk of infection transmission or cross contamination for yourself and your pet, gloves should be worn whilst handling all meat products and there should be specific utensils, bowls and/or other equipment that are specifically for the use of preparing your pets food.  The use of anthelmintic products (which are worming products) may also need to be increased to keep the risk of your pets contracting worms lowered.  Homemade diets are usually veterinary recommended if your dog has sensitive skin or gastrointestinal issues.

Commercial diets include supermarket branded diets to specialist veterinary branded diets.  The average person will just buy a bag of dog food by what the bag says or the pretty bags without really reading the ingredients or contents.  The benefit of feeding a premium or veterinary branded food is that the product has been scientifically designed to meet the nutritional requirements of your pets for each stage of life/lifestyle or to manage health conditions.  Most premium brands will also offer a money back guarantee if your pet doesn’t like or eat the product.

A lot of people believe that the premium branded foods are too expensive and not worth it; however the phrase ‘quality is better than quantity’ comes into play.  Due to the feeds being designed to meet all of the nutritional requirements, your pet will only need a portion of what they would normally receive in comparison to a supermarket branded food.  For example they may only need one cup of a premium branded food in comparison to three cups of a generic brand.  Therefore a bag of premium food would last longer than a generic brand.

At the clinic we stock Hills and Advance products; however if you are wanting another brand of food we are more than happy to order other products especially for you.  If you are unsure if what you are feeding is meeting your pets’ nutritional requirements, come in and have a chat to the nurses at the front desk or the veterinarians.  also feel free to bring your pets down and weigh them so that w can keep an accurate record of their weight.

As the Bundaberg region has rural areas it is well populated with a variety of wildlife; including kangaroos, koalas, many birds native and non-native, possums, sugar gliders, echidnas, bats and the list goes on.

 

The most common cases that are seen in the veterinary industry are baby birds that are brought in. Many a time they have either fallen or been blown out of the nest or tree they were residing in. The bird should be left where it is on the ground in the scenario that it is not at risk of being eaten by the neighbourhood cat or dog. The reason for leaving them is that babies parents are ‘usually’ flying around or close by in a tree monitoring their babies from a distance. The bird should be picked up if you are unsure of its safety or is the parents can’t be seen anywhere.

 

Another common case that is seen is wallaby’s that are from kangaroos that have been struck by a car. It is only safe to check a kangaroos pouch if the adult has clearly passed away. Never approach the animal if it is still alive as they can inflict serious injuries to a human by kicking or scratching with their nails. If a kangaroo is seen half alive or suffering, the council should be phoned to deal with the problem at hand.

Other common things that are seen in the clinic is wildlife that have injuries from household pets. Such as birds or other wildlife getting bite wounds or scratches from cats or dogs. A way that this can be reduced is by keeping your cat or dog inside if possible or even putting bells on your pets collars to warn the bird or other wildlife that there is something lurking about.

Many people that stumble across wildlife hesitate to bring them to a veterinary clinic in fear of being charged for the services or rehabilitation of the animals; however this is incorrect as the veterinarians at the clinic can view wildlife free of charge to the person bringing the wildlife in.

However if the animal can be rehabilitated, they are then forwarded onto a wildlife carer that has the skill and time to correctly revitalise the injured animal or raise them if they are too young. Once the animal is old enough or healthy enough they can be released back into their natural environment.

The Queensland Wildlife Carers and Volunteers Association is a non-profit organisation that relies heavily on donations and support from the community.

 

Are your pets feeling the heat, got a few knots or a little on the smelly side?  Do they need a nail trim or flea bath?  Grooming is an essential part of your pets daily needs.  Each breed has different requirements, such as a Schnauzer which would require more maintenance than something like a Rottweiler.

Bathing is something that all dogs will experience throughout their life.  There are many different products available; such as natural shampoos, medicated shampoos, leave in conditioners, specific coat colour treatments and the list goes on.  A dog requires a bath at least once a month however weekly or daily baths can be detrimental to the coat and skin. However a medicated shampoo may be recommended to use a few times a week for specific conditions.  At the surgery we offer a range of bathing treatments; such as flea treatments, regular everyday bathing or medicated washes.

Regular coat brushing can be beneficial for not only your dog or cat, but also for yourself as it is quality time spent and can reduce the amount of hair loss.  Brushing can also encourage hair growth and stimulate the skin follicles to help remove the ‘dandruff’ or loose skin that appears in your pets coat.  Another benefit of grooming is to prevent hair matting that is formed from knots.  Matts can be uncomfortable and detrimental towards your pet as they pull on the underlying skin and can cause infections and wounds from damage to the skin.  We offer a range of brushes and combs.

Nail trimming is also important for your dog as it can prevent scratches and harm coming from the sharp points.  Regular trimming also keeps the nails short as the ‘quick’ (the pink bit of the nail) will keep growing longer if the nails are left long, making the nails appear long even after being trimmed.

At the surgery we now have a designated grooming facility; including a heated hydrobath, blow dryer and top of the range clipping equipment.  The groomers at the clinic have had experience with dogs as small as chihuahuas to the largest of breeds such as wolfhounds and they are also experienced with cats.

Grooming appointments can be arranged from Monday through to Friday (excluding weekends).  We offer a wide range of services; including a simple tidy, full body clips, breed specific styling cuts or even just a bath to get your fur babies smelling scrumptious again!

Please phone the surgery on (07) 4151 3688 for prices and to arrange an appointment for your pets today!